tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57310897407125159332024-03-13T07:49:49.180-07:00costume detailElements of costume design for film and the related interests of a costume designer.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comBlogger334125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-4913713830092349462016-02-04T13:20:00.001-08:002018-08-01T00:51:18.447-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1CiPwBAXJACZsQp1ZA2yqU9SYvho8ackrWSBcjb4aTpE26JxAYeJBjW2xl4tTB2zCfPgvzErBlslkBQ0z58FvxnFy6hyphenhyphenSRVzy_aFms855yaq8tgd8lX6YoAyjvaZ6ElS86ntOEAbFx4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-17+at+13.06.34.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh1CiPwBAXJACZsQp1ZA2yqU9SYvho8ackrWSBcjb4aTpE26JxAYeJBjW2xl4tTB2zCfPgvzErBlslkBQ0z58FvxnFy6hyphenhyphenSRVzy_aFms855yaq8tgd8lX6YoAyjvaZ6ElS86ntOEAbFx4/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-12-17+at+13.06.34.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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I am going to put this project to sleep now. It's the end of the year and a good time to stop.<br />
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Working in costume has made me fairly faddish.<br />
I am fully trained to be able to throw all of my energies into a project and then finish it up and move on to new things.<br />
This suits my personality and I should have closed this project down in the same way. I neglected to call it a day when my interest in its possibilities faded.<br />
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Thank You for all of the correspondence, shared information and inspiration, I have thoroughly enjoyed my venture into blogging.<br />
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<br />Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-35417589730472739512015-05-10T23:00:00.000-07:002015-05-11T01:22:40.866-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Patricia Norris, possibly my all-time favourite costume designer, died earlier this year. The only person to receive a lifetime achievement award from both The Costume Designers Guild and The Art Directors Guild, she worked on some great films, designing costumes which I go back to again and again, films such as Days of Heaven and The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford. Her contribution to Twin Peaks and Wild at Heart influenced all of us in the costume department at Wimbledon School of Art in 1990.</div>
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Incredibly still designing for both departments in her late seventies on Killing Them Softly and being Oscar nominated for 12 Years a Slave in 2014 at the age of 82, she must have had phenomenal energy and determination. Sometimes I feel too old to keep this up and yet I've barely got started in comparison.</div>
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So I knew she was an amazing woman who had achieved difficult things in a different time, but then I read this in the LA Times:</div>
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<i>In 1965 she got a job as a stock girl in MGM's costume department to provide for her children she was raising as a single mother. Working her way up, she earned her first credit as a costume designer on the James Garner western "Support Your Local Gunfighter." (1971).</i></div>
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Not only a single parent but a single parent to five children. </div>
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I tried to track her down when I was in LA last year as I was keen to meet her to discuss her work and experience, but she was living in the mountains at the time, nowhere near where I was, so no chance to meet in my tightest of schedules. Shame, it would have been so interesting to hear her take on it all.</div>
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<a href="http://costumedesignersguild.com/articles-videos/feature-story/">What an incredible woman</a>.</div>
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Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-37527436501794539422015-05-05T15:04:00.002-07:002015-05-11T00:58:42.385-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
Hemlines and waistlines.<br />
Embarrassingly I can't remember the name of the book - but I found it in an amazing second hand bookshop in L.A. called <a href="http://www.iliadbooks.com/">Illiad.</a><br />
Cute reference.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-81673148993903015832015-05-04T15:13:00.001-07:002015-05-04T15:13:54.205-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hat sizer - <a href="http://westerncostume.com/">Western Costume.</a>Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-16285011062312763272015-05-04T00:04:00.000-07:002015-05-11T01:02:14.520-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Betsey Potter, owner of <a href="http://www.valentinoscostumes.com/home.html">The Costume House LLC,</a> and my costume companion around LA last year, has a fantastic collection of travelling salesmen's catalogues from the 1880's through to the 1930's. They are substantial tomes, like old parish bibles, so evocative of the period. It's great to handle the cloths, so many options and such good, heavy, dense quality, particularly the coatings. We make nothing like it now and it only makes me think again about how pointless it can be to try too hard to recreate authentic early clothing for costume. Better to enjoy the effort of a creative response to a period. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's an interesting essay on the subject <a href="http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1186&context=tsaconf">here.</a></span></div>
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Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-92126684228983619172015-05-03T13:22:00.000-07:002015-05-03T22:19:32.287-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Researching for Genius I bought quite a few old catalogues, this one, a Sears, Roebuck & Co. from 1929 was a particularly useful Ebay find. I am trying to find out whether or not it's in the public domain, if so I will share the whole thing, it's only small. My favourite page was the sporty selection above.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-11794606178735055892015-04-30T03:13:00.000-07:002015-05-03T22:27:50.593-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Lovely pair of early, unworn tennis shoes. Angels Costumes' rental stock.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-23710410677183258652015-02-07T11:33:00.000-08:002015-05-11T01:04:25.975-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPUsovImLeZ82tkCMdVvtYe6YTvf4q3CnvSAauUErXEQqV5XHxYiQwiQJPTCfazaMY9Wwi8bvqNKuDcaxfLD3tyQRQuEZpMIxZ-oKumlHzFHynT3weqvd8lQpPyg7F8vkHGC7HrxVKIHx/s1600/IMG_1114_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpPUsovImLeZ82tkCMdVvtYe6YTvf4q3CnvSAauUErXEQqV5XHxYiQwiQJPTCfazaMY9Wwi8bvqNKuDcaxfLD3tyQRQuEZpMIxZ-oKumlHzFHynT3weqvd8lQpPyg7F8vkHGC7HrxVKIHx/s400/IMG_1114_2.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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I love this woman's costume. We dressed her for featured-background work on Bel Ami, she was dressed head to toe in original stock.</div>
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The hat is detailed <a href="http://costumedetail.blogspot.co.uk/2010_04_01_archive.html">here</a> and comes from Aram in Paris, the two piece, bodice and skirt, is from Angels Costumes in London. The bodice is tiny, I saw it when I was in Angels last week and it reminded me of this picture. Often the surviving clothes we use are difficult sizes for us to fit onto people, this naturally controls how often they are used and extends their life.</div>
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It's always interesting to see real clothes worn as they would have been worn. </div>
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A perfect fit and still earning their keep 125 years later.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-2024646663102605212015-02-07T10:59:00.000-08:002015-02-07T10:59:25.126-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One rented from Western Costume in Los Angeles, one rented from Angels the Costumiers in London... quite a coincidence.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-64869098274140416352014-10-29T15:39:00.000-07:002015-05-11T01:03:26.678-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Diana Foster at <a href="http://www.united-american.com/site/history/">United American Costume Co.</a> made me feel very welcome. <br />
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Their collection is steeped in the history of old western films and has a very personal, family feel. Loads of great items, some of which I hope to find time to share the details of on <a href="http://instagram.com/costume_detail">Instagram.</a></div>
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I wish we made westerns in Europe more often, I was surrounded by clothes I would love the opportunity to use. Who knows, maybe there will be a spaghetti western revival and we'll all be off to Spain.</div>
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Anyway ... these shoes ... I feel sure now that these are the <a href="http://costumedetail.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/i-am-reading-book-i-found-in-charity.html">bulldog toes</a> I blogged about last year.?<br />
<br />Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-63702297685681269052014-10-28T14:12:00.001-07:002014-11-02T12:51:54.371-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Two costumes from Suffragette are on display at The Design Museum.<br />
The exhibition, <a href="http://designmuseum.org/exhibitions/future-exhibitions/women-fashion-power">Women, Fashion Power</a>, opens tomorrow.<br />
I popped in earlier to finish dressing the stands and was pleased to see that our costumes are standing beside an authentic suffragette's bodice which belongs to <a href="http://www.meg-andrews.com/">Meg Andrews</a>.<br />
It's a dead good exhibition, well worth a visit.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-59349522679362769922014-10-06T14:15:00.000-07:002014-10-06T14:15:09.144-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://www.antoshirt.com/page/about-anto">Anto Shirts.</a></div>
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Colourways in every direction and an archive of patterns which includes former presidents, members of the Rat Pack and any actor you care to mention.</div>
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I had two spearpoint collar shirts made to measure in four days.</div>
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A great LA experience, Anto has been in business since 1955.</div>
<br />Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-30354963352638547022014-09-28T22:35:00.001-07:002018-08-01T01:31:27.884-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.remixvintageshoes.com/location.html">Remix Shoes</a> felt like a pilgrimage. Years of looking online, finally a visit.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-25697136433127214182014-09-14T14:49:00.000-07:002015-05-11T05:49:59.555-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">I am in LA this week pulling stock for our current project which is set in New York in the thirties. Even with a small budget I knew I had to come here to spend some money on authentic American clothing.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">I have had an exhausting, exhilarating, ambitious week.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">Betsey Potter whom I met on a job last year has been showing me around, driving very fast indeed but I think that's her way, regardless of my crazy schedule.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">First stop was MPCC, <a href="http://www.mpccwardrobe.com/">Motion Picture Costume Co</a>.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;"> </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">This costume house has a great collection within their principal department.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">Having recently purchased stock from another house called Repeat Performance, MPCC have kept a separate area for these principal rentals, so they've effectively got two tiers of quality. This principal collection is particularly well cared for, it contains all the small details and the stock feels very fresh, remember these clothes are nigh on 100 years old.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">Some of the hats are just brilliant. I will blog some shapes when we unpack in London next week.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">In the evening I went to meet Bill and Jean Gold at Repeat Performance where they have kept a small part of their original collection and this stock is for sale. They still buy too, I imagine they can't stop as they are very passionate about their stock. We had a great chat about clothes, filming, friends in common, and I purchased some garments which will hopefully nail a couple of scenes for me. Bill and Jean's boutique collection was of particularly special quality.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px; text-align: justify;">Their online shop is </span><a href="http://www.rpvintage.com/?flash=true" style="background-color: white; color: #999999; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px; text-align: justify; text-decoration: none;">here</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px; text-align: justify;">, it's worth a visit.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">And on the way home we passed the Paramount arches. Doing a thirties film made this feel quite special, something I haven't really connected with before is the history of film making here in LA.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">I am usually standing in the rain doing the gritty urban dramas.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dyp3LgyR0zhvfMYgVNBvE7CYf-hnIVezUdvrU2uSl0UicqXoR297vyttdaS0SDxT0iwheLFbv5t4WKRuFTnHB8Ad3dsEBKhzt0niOuWf9BjNloaF1P9UQnc2RWD-my0NkrId6MKVAg8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-09-10+at+04.11.10.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dyp3LgyR0zhvfMYgVNBvE7CYf-hnIVezUdvrU2uSl0UicqXoR297vyttdaS0SDxT0iwheLFbv5t4WKRuFTnHB8Ad3dsEBKhzt0niOuWf9BjNloaF1P9UQnc2RWD-my0NkrId6MKVAg8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-09-10+at+04.11.10.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #4c4c4c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20.7999992370605px;"><br /></span>Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-80608025756794172232014-08-28T08:09:00.002-07:002014-09-14T15:00:34.062-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Via <a href="http://kleidersachen.tumblr.com/">Kleidersachen</a>Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-68305128743646789432014-08-26T14:15:00.000-07:002018-08-01T02:27:30.792-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FiJVDCo1gq9EhpJZfXRx1ezjoezgoxRzkf8y8UBSg-UCogiOIRjt5eN2qVMP21qB1bcuahyJxa_I93LBElP1aI73jS2k6jgxEpHEk9xTpwBbrCqOkcZfgtxn2Y4BRduz_XUMZQzjmRU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-25+at+11.14.40.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7FiJVDCo1gq9EhpJZfXRx1ezjoezgoxRzkf8y8UBSg-UCogiOIRjt5eN2qVMP21qB1bcuahyJxa_I93LBElP1aI73jS2k6jgxEpHEk9xTpwBbrCqOkcZfgtxn2Y4BRduz_XUMZQzjmRU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-08-25+at+11.14.40.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="http://tomofholland.com/">Tom of Holland's</a> knitted darning samplers.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-32042985450670117962014-08-20T13:31:00.001-07:002014-08-21T00:28:45.183-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVz4aTcRCpLNbcl6IEKCi4kTa9zydbGGRJAbkUXCZt3jlVdrC0BXym5boYHa1BN78ByGtFOXy4cT7pOcM17sxiALzTvHm51MBwHRhRpT85GMGwkSryticz3z8l41Ia-GB0J7m-dJEeAI/s1600/1396436305.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzVz4aTcRCpLNbcl6IEKCi4kTa9zydbGGRJAbkUXCZt3jlVdrC0BXym5boYHa1BN78ByGtFOXy4cT7pOcM17sxiALzTvHm51MBwHRhRpT85GMGwkSryticz3z8l41Ia-GB0J7m-dJEeAI/s1600/1396436305.jpg" height="210" width="640" /></a></div>
I spent some of today out at Pinewood with Charotte Owttrim from Creative Skillset.<br />
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Charlotte runs the <a href="http://creativeskillset.org/who_we_help/young_creative_talent/ways_creative_industries/trainee_finder">Creative Skillset Trainee Placement Scheme</a> which provides trainee placements for all departments of the film industry. Aimed at people who have gained a good level of experience but are finding it hard to get their foot in the door, Skillset offers more than a stepping stone.<br />
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Support is offered for roughly a year, the idea being that by the end of their year candidates will have gained the experience they need to fill any gaps in their CV's. As well as this practical training, the scheme offers a solid introduction to the environment within which they can make contacts and establish themselves in their departments thus providing them with the foothold they need.<br />
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Today we were meeting the prospective candidates for the current intake. Charlotte has a great feel for CV's, she has analysed hundreds, if not thousands of them and there wasn't a single person in the final edit who we felt couldn't cope with the job. To have got this far, passing her sharp instincts to reach the final interview was a great achievement for each of them, regardless of the final outcome of their interviews.<br />
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The nurturing environment of Skillset also offers a cushion to strong but ultimately unsuccessful candidates. This is a sort of holding pool where future trainees are put through the induction days along with successful candidates but encouraged to gain a little more experience before they take up their place. This pool is for people whose potential is apparent but whose experience isn't quite there yet.<br />
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I really liked this idea of a holding pool because one or two applicants weren't quite ready to work as full-time members of the department but they were inspiring and deserving of the opportunity. Every bit as focused as the successful applicants they simply need a little more time before they take up their spot. I hope stalling their places for a few months will boost their confidence and provide them the impetus they need to get that final edge onto their CV's.<br />
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Over the last three years I have worked on many films which have used Skillset Trainees and I keep going back for more. Charlotte's stringent processing means I am always confident whoever she sends will be a great addition to our team, I have kept in touch and we have continued to employ many of them. We have especially enjoyed seeing our trainees grow in confidence and ability, heading towards being the people who will employ and train the next generation.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-1771175423959233572014-07-02T11:59:00.000-07:002014-08-20T13:33:45.535-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXMxkzEL4tJf4GrtaNnvkZl6gniMOF1NkUB8q19mv_0GAg5A56wMeZ3zui-aeR77Ikc-hFBJPvd6sMJnyi59BuReRn7W1BqTwE7U-S-cVsRkyR7GBt4uVFQV4ER0HRCyK7y5hpAbpAvM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-02+at+19.25.45.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggXMxkzEL4tJf4GrtaNnvkZl6gniMOF1NkUB8q19mv_0GAg5A56wMeZ3zui-aeR77Ikc-hFBJPvd6sMJnyi59BuReRn7W1BqTwE7U-S-cVsRkyR7GBt4uVFQV4ER0HRCyK7y5hpAbpAvM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-07-02+at+19.25.45.png" height="640" width="512" /></a></div>
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I was interested to see this article at <a href="http://flavorwire.com/448305/50-costume-test-photos-from-famous-films/view-all">Flavorwire magazine - 'costume test photo's'</a>.</div>
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Fitting photo's are a vital part of our process but it is unusual to see them published. There is a big element of trust involved in the rehearsal period, the photo's being quite intimate because the actors generally aren't wearing any make-up and the costumes usually have pins and visible markings for alterations and whatnot. </div>
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They are most definitely not for sharing. </div>
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Maybe there is a thirty year rule or something! </div>
Anyway, in these old studio photographs I particularly like the blackboards and the small details in the notes; the real names, costumer credits, black and white or colour tick-box options, the scenes for each costume all plotted in advance. They don't appear to be expecting much to happen organically throughout filming whereas I'm used to lots of costumes filtering onto the truck throughout the schedule and I am open to new ideas from cast throughout. Even when the costumes all have to be made it's not the norm to have them all ready before we shoot, the workroom will be busy making most of the way through.<br />
They reek of a slower pace of life.<br />
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It's quite amazing to see technology change so fast. I used to be sent out to Snappy Snaps with a roll of film to get prints developed and then go to use a public phone box so I could let the designer know how long it was going to take. Around that time I can remember saying to Phoebe de Gaye that one day I would be able to sample for her and send pictures from my mobile phone back to her in the office, saving me the journey from the West End to Angels so she could make a decision and then for me to go back to town to buy the items. It seemed like a sci-fi vision at the time and, believe me, it wasn't very long ago.<br />
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Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-44212830169864000642014-06-30T23:21:00.000-07:002014-06-30T23:21:57.027-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunYx4yHLKh9P70NwyrNiTLjANx6Pe4Ea7S9BVHnx-OhsQCsqExwasoWEDa10g9xL36BHSg8qe-CR1HBVG3lKKf3wnInMPm_bW5F2WVrwgFuZqK65zeyYwGZ4J_2JQryaoQXFnoB3mFT8/s1600/Nippers080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunYx4yHLKh9P70NwyrNiTLjANx6Pe4Ea7S9BVHnx-OhsQCsqExwasoWEDa10g9xL36BHSg8qe-CR1HBVG3lKKf3wnInMPm_bW5F2WVrwgFuZqK65zeyYwGZ4J_2JQryaoQXFnoB3mFT8/s1600/Nippers080.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdDcryTuq-M7w2ERjO0FrmItgCJv8ZE-Itz7DcbdIN9SpWxz7ojOv75JCVnK6RIH6vYHj8I6IH1ozWjm0T90_KcZPzRH1f0b5Dl1eZR76lIU_3rygbPpzxoMhQ0YhEdi4Bx4czyZMMko/s1600/Nippers110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNdDcryTuq-M7w2ERjO0FrmItgCJv8ZE-Itz7DcbdIN9SpWxz7ojOv75JCVnK6RIH6vYHj8I6IH1ozWjm0T90_KcZPzRH1f0b5Dl1eZR76lIU_3rygbPpzxoMhQ0YhEdi4Bx4czyZMMko/s1600/Nippers110.jpg" height="640" width="444" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnTk5c_uk-S6Do4OxeDzi0ZQGKSeHGm-yycdk0BiTtwPkZSibRVVDUhAU2ZP9rmV07DhyphenhyphenqVXfmwY9h6XVal5a4sibWnAGbAoPK3O6PeFOByYfPtcGRhE9q4AnhsA8BHrHZhrbljouN-i8/s1600/celiacompton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnTk5c_uk-S6Do4OxeDzi0ZQGKSeHGm-yycdk0BiTtwPkZSibRVVDUhAU2ZP9rmV07DhyphenhyphenqVXfmwY9h6XVal5a4sibWnAGbAoPK3O6PeFOByYfPtcGRhE9q4AnhsA8BHrHZhrbljouN-i8/s1600/celiacompton.jpg" height="640" width="444" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagWrZQHlGlFA3rGZ9SZWoIKknla0XSdaEle6Se21xgJ6wqNRNq3jHZK4ofk5fzvmYTC6j8JTmjMlUYw4rjyNc13CUbbGnr8p1jmCAwdhiz8rlNGLxUxamNRc4alig1g5xJEXi5_2pcaE/s1600/walterseabrook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgagWrZQHlGlFA3rGZ9SZWoIKknla0XSdaEle6Se21xgJ6wqNRNq3jHZK4ofk5fzvmYTC6j8JTmjMlUYw4rjyNc13CUbbGnr8p1jmCAwdhiz8rlNGLxUxamNRc4alig1g5xJEXi5_2pcaE/s1600/walterseabrook.jpg" height="640" width="440" /></a></div>
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An Amazing Photogrpahic Discovery - <a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/06/29/an-astonishing-photographic-discovery/">Spitalfields Life.</a></div>
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<br />Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-60050451106324016362014-06-24T07:08:00.002-07:002014-06-24T07:08:56.180-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsVUFKYYklUA-GEiEClh5XdAx9kHEHDEOz9x4IQ4nh4IuHHxvF8afGf4SdsPczCvH1hy2Eh4RXlxsY_jTWLJY5IROetjZG5IOyIT8dCqPvUgV8WChuzaH_R59_Mzz-fvxxtyS_2hmh60/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-24+at+15.04.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsVUFKYYklUA-GEiEClh5XdAx9kHEHDEOz9x4IQ4nh4IuHHxvF8afGf4SdsPczCvH1hy2Eh4RXlxsY_jTWLJY5IROetjZG5IOyIT8dCqPvUgV8WChuzaH_R59_Mzz-fvxxtyS_2hmh60/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-24+at+15.04.04.png" height="444" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSH7AHCYN6zT78WrSh0OXGgysnJlW51K4xdxfVIfoaWQ-HG57-QEjuk1dbStIaI_gc8S6aKg-9YKQjfy6CK8gXzC41KQjg6cioQS6rONYmZi44gsSuS_GH9XZkUqj79sjy0oHTgUlf2_Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-24+at+15.05.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSH7AHCYN6zT78WrSh0OXGgysnJlW51K4xdxfVIfoaWQ-HG57-QEjuk1dbStIaI_gc8S6aKg-9YKQjfy6CK8gXzC41KQjg6cioQS6rONYmZi44gsSuS_GH9XZkUqj79sjy0oHTgUlf2_Q/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-24+at+15.05.14.png" height="428" width="640" /></a></div>
1938 and 1966<br />
<a href="http://webapp1.dlib.indiana.edu/cushman/index.jsp">Charles W. Cushman Collection</a>Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-74444501580268956342014-06-17T10:13:00.000-07:002014-06-17T10:13:33.451-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5WMilUKXm5-BV4Z8Y5zsnFdQ_rom2jCQ1xrQY7Ry3xpW753-8zgK-CpAn-EDfExE6k7WBI-sxTPW1OaGkBkjrWxXLXlAi3sP2EeVUuS5tPYU9uY9PQtRI9adS7XU6D7pXtOJCz6YYdg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-17+at+18.10.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG5WMilUKXm5-BV4Z8Y5zsnFdQ_rom2jCQ1xrQY7Ry3xpW753-8zgK-CpAn-EDfExE6k7WBI-sxTPW1OaGkBkjrWxXLXlAi3sP2EeVUuS5tPYU9uY9PQtRI9adS7XU6D7pXtOJCz6YYdg/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-17+at+18.10.43.png" height="472" width="640" /></a></div>
The John Paul Gaultier exhibition at <a href="https://www.barbican.org.uk/artgallery/event-detail.asp?ID=14772">The Barbican </a>is excellent.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-16198151027419132092014-06-07T23:52:00.001-07:002014-06-07T23:52:40.504-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSlDF9ceN3SKH0XhyphenhyphenyTdTzyQWOhfgl4Bb5Kilb-JdO-LCsnq1J0uW4MEvybgatRPF41sfvqvYhcAW_yyyEw75gjqirvm53XT5zrJcruqDyIpRpM5PGe1INiYoqq8cXNWpEBe8_9VzsTM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-06+at+21.51.27.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSlDF9ceN3SKH0XhyphenhyphenyTdTzyQWOhfgl4Bb5Kilb-JdO-LCsnq1J0uW4MEvybgatRPF41sfvqvYhcAW_yyyEw75gjqirvm53XT5zrJcruqDyIpRpM5PGe1INiYoqq8cXNWpEBe8_9VzsTM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-06+at+21.51.27.png" height="416" width="640" /></a></div>
Natalie Ward sent me this saying how well it sums up being a Costume Designer!Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-16738686286158407132014-06-05T13:37:00.001-07:002014-06-05T21:21:48.855-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgE8S4cuwF47jL2ByiQGBTZn9vJz_yX3IoDPkvzSshGhwpfoba86CnrWrlFsXEQQLyOx-Jh8M-K_OiWYPTDijc-6RlemDXcwcWx2Q_LcgEmgOvIcb0bORqPCAMb6MEmLNq-fJn34SQE28/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-05+at+20.57.51.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgE8S4cuwF47jL2ByiQGBTZn9vJz_yX3IoDPkvzSshGhwpfoba86CnrWrlFsXEQQLyOx-Jh8M-K_OiWYPTDijc-6RlemDXcwcWx2Q_LcgEmgOvIcb0bORqPCAMb6MEmLNq-fJn34SQE28/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-05+at+20.57.51.png" height="354" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkOB7VU6QbGn7rSB1xSnwx0Qwx1Ghat38Ov2hM4Wb9HrcwUA_UmsxHAkPpiDQLCo_9rGzubmT8e4bGfrtYUIZkpTvuTZlubKQWzyiW71WErQ5f1QDCl_PErhtKEkmtJ2SM2dTXic2jH9M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-05+at+20.56.19.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkOB7VU6QbGn7rSB1xSnwx0Qwx1Ghat38Ov2hM4Wb9HrcwUA_UmsxHAkPpiDQLCo_9rGzubmT8e4bGfrtYUIZkpTvuTZlubKQWzyiW71WErQ5f1QDCl_PErhtKEkmtJ2SM2dTXic2jH9M/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-06-05+at+20.56.19.png" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
My last job was about the Suffragettes and in order to reproduce their sashes and medals we worked with <a href="http://www.toye.com/">Toye Kenning and Spencer</a>, a company with a fascinating history which traces back to 1685.<br />
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These photo's are of our Votes for Women sashes, we also ordered medals which the women received from the <a href="http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/explore-online/pocket-histories/suffragette-city-how-did-votes-women-campaign-affect-london-19061914/hunger-strikes/">WSPU</a> after serving time in prison and hunger striking. Toye had made the original medals and were able to delve into their archive, incredibly finding the actual dies that had been made to cut the medals at the time, bringing an authenticity to our film which none of us had foreseen.<br />
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The ribbon was woven and the sashes embroidered to the most pleasingly high standards. When the delivery arrived on our costume truck and we finally handled the material that we had been looking at reference photographs of for months, we felt very much in touch with the women who had inspired our story<br />
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Freddie Toye, who helped us throughout the manufacture, kindly invited us to do a site visit to see the whole process and so I think a couple of us are going to do a field trip this summer - can't wait.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-57310791703026476162014-05-03T05:58:00.001-07:002014-05-03T05:59:35.379-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdn7McX61aCuxaNNZiCfFv-YskWrba9hHKAD-0cxFpmQtfR3ZMO0UGyuWbuoJdqc6lfM9l82PE-9jVz_WUC2FfyHGU_VX-CijUlAWvan-9IqpePpC1xe0FDwLXgEEheekZBtH8lG5F8bc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-05-03+at+13.54.47.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdn7McX61aCuxaNNZiCfFv-YskWrba9hHKAD-0cxFpmQtfR3ZMO0UGyuWbuoJdqc6lfM9l82PE-9jVz_WUC2FfyHGU_VX-CijUlAWvan-9IqpePpC1xe0FDwLXgEEheekZBtH8lG5F8bc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-05-03+at+13.54.47.png" height="538" width="640" /></a></div>
<a href="http://admin.1fife.org.uk/uploadfiles/publications/c64_MicrosoftWord-i-cr-2-2v11.pdf">Fife Council</a> have an archive of photographs of criminals arrested around 1910.<br />
Betsy Gordon was wearing a pretty spectacular hat when she was arrested.<br />
I love this image.Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5731089740712515933.post-83787667440079780002014-04-21T11:17:00.002-07:002014-04-21T11:17:06.616-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXH8eimaddWaK9hWrd-MvxQr_Knnh-Y1YTZpV8OqCv5riWUHVjqg2dc3uQZ6Hqzf0LrYiJyZMHnIC_K6jfIdvetgkgApqgubBLQchiMAeJCy3RL9wQiXHpwbX-cYLfTPv61B9SV3z3TP4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-04-21+at+18.57.29.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXH8eimaddWaK9hWrd-MvxQr_Knnh-Y1YTZpV8OqCv5riWUHVjqg2dc3uQZ6Hqzf0LrYiJyZMHnIC_K6jfIdvetgkgApqgubBLQchiMAeJCy3RL9wQiXHpwbX-cYLfTPv61B9SV3z3TP4/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-04-21+at+18.57.29.png" height="450" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Costume Detailhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04256482441184040993noreply@blogger.com