costume detail

Film Crew # 14

2012-02-09T13:39:00.000-08:00

Mark and Louis, Unit Drivers.

Chinese Ceremonial Court Robes

2012-02-02T00:12:00.000-08:00

I have been attending a short course at the V&A - Silk, Style and Symbolism: Chinese and Japanese Textiles.

The lectures are great, putting the costumes into their historical context and giving us the knowledge necessary to start reading the heavy symbolism apparent on absolutely everything.
I am starting right at the beginning because Chinese costume isn't something I've ever needed to research for work so I know nothing about it. Really basic things like learning to tell the difference between men's and women's robes is both useful and interesting.

I had planned to share my course notes here but I am far too much of a novice to attempt that, the complexities are vast so I shall try to show a little of what fascinates me as a taster and recommend better places to gain further knowledge as I come across them.

The first two lectures covered Imperial Court Dress of the Qing period (1644 - 1911).

Of course - Murphy's Law - I won't be able to attend all of the lectures because I will be away filming. I guessed this would happen but figured book it anyway and better to attend some than none at all - the film industry makes fitting into a normal life of planning and preparing in advance impossible.

Costume Research: Seville & Madrid

2012-01-26T13:31:00.000-08:00

I've been in Seville and Madrid researching Spanish 'types'.
To grasp the look of Seville in three days, I took a whistle-stop tour of as many neighbourhoods and venues as I could, allowing me to see a cross-section of society from churchgoers to flea-marketeers, restaurant customers to the everyday patrons of a fantastic flamenco bar called L'Anselma.
Typial colours in winter are rich browns and ochres; the colour of the earth around Seville.
The lady in the fur coat in the top photograph was not unusual.

I saw these great hand-made leather shoes and boots in Madrid, the shop was closed so I had to squeeze my camera between the bars of the shutter to get a record of them, I will find out more and post the details when we go back, the sandals in particular will be very handy for period.

Nice Print 1970's shirt

2012-01-25T13:22:00.000-08:00

Not a bad photo considering it was taken in dim light with my iphone, the colours were warmer.

Spider Silk Robe

2012-01-22T09:53:00.000-08:00

This is the robe made from the gossamer I blogged about here, it's the largest garment ever made entirely from spider silk
I think the most astonishing thing is that spider silk can't be felt by the human hand and the author of this article didn't know, when her eyes were closed, whether the robe lay across her hands or not. It must feel incredibly weird to wear the gown.
It's going on show at the V&A on Wednesday and I shall pop in to look, apparently the colour is incredible.

Read the full article in The Guardian Online, here.

Liebster Award

2012-01-20T15:21:00.000-08:00

Ooh - I have been given an award!

It's called a Liebster and was awarded to me by fellow blogger, Vintage Jane.

So first of all Thank You Very Much to Vintage Jane, if you don't know her blog, check it out now, loads of great vintage finds and some of them are for sale!

I am flattered, it's always good to get positive feedback from other bloggers and readers with shared interests, this community has encouraged me to continue in an online exploration of the things that inform my work as a Costume Designer.

Writing thoughts down, saving an article or considering an image helps me understand where I am coming from in my practice but blogging these items and discussing it online has added another dimension to this habit that is something different to notebooks, scrapbooks or sketchpads, hopefully it keeps those thoughts a little bit closer to the surface, ready.

About this award:

The word “liebster” means favorite in German, and the Liebster Award is intended to spotlight up and coming blogs with fewer than 200 followers.
Upon receiving this Liebster Award, there are a few rules:

1. Copy and paste the award on your blog.
2. Thank the giver and link back to the blogger who gave it to you.
3. Reveal your top 5 picks for the award.
4. Have faith that your followers will spread the word to other bloggers.

So the five blogs chosen by me to receive a Liebster are -

1. Ragtop Vintage - A fine blog and a cool shop.
2. Ballyhoo Vintage News - More of the stuff I'd like to own...
3. A Year in Charlie's Pocket - Ten year old Charlie's pockets are an inspiration.
4. Folk Object - Makes me want to make things.
5. Demolition of the Mildmay Hospital - The view from our balcony (this is not my blog!).

Womens Land Army Jodphurs

2012-01-18T12:28:00.000-08:00

Thisisatlcostume are on Ebay right now selling these great looking Womens Land Army reproduction jodphurs.

Last year I bought a chocolate brown pair of cord jodphurs from Spitalfields Market but I can still feel an urge for a pair of these tan ones coming on... however they'll need to wait, I just bought a second pair of Womens 1920's chino Customised Levi's which I successfully dyed today, giving me a darker option.

They were half price in Cinch so I couldn't leave them behind..

The shop on Ebay is also offering Land Army dungarees.

McManus Gallery, Dundee.

2012-01-17T13:44:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year.
I am a little late getting going with blogging in 2012, it's been a hectic time.

We recently visited the newly refurbished McManus Gallery in Dundee where I saw this great pair of boots and charming Inuit doll.
The dolls were traditionally made by young girls as they learned the domestic skills of skinning the animal and processing the skins for clothing.

Thank you for sticking with me, I've been a bad blogger lately but I feel I'm back on track!

2011-12-24T10:19:00.000-08:00

Season's Greetings to One and All.

Sorry I've lapsed throughout December, it's been a crazy time and I've been too busy to concentrate on much of the fun stuff, like blogging.
My resolution is for far more posts next year and I'm treating myself to a new camera as soon as my next job starts so things should definitely improve!
Hope 2012 is a great year for everyone, best wishes. J. x

Found Photo # 8

2011-11-07T09:53:00.000-08:00

I liked this one because there is a person peeping out of the upstairs window.
Found in a junkshop, it could be anyplace, the boy on the right hand side is wearing a jumper that looks a bit like a Guernsey, which is always a favourite shape of mine.

Victorian Photobooth

2011-10-31T06:26:00.000-07:00

There are some great images in a Flickr group right now - The Smiling Victorian. It's great to see the human side of people who usually look so staid.

Smart Boys

2011-10-24T05:13:00.000-07:00

On the subject of well dressed young people, this is Lino, one of our young actors.
Eleven years of age and buying all his own clothes from ebay.
He arrives looking great every day, it's hard to believe he isn't being dressed by a parent but he really does create this look all by himself.
He could easily be on The Sartorialist.
Obviously the Costume Department are huge fans.

School Uniform Rant

2011-10-19T05:00:00.000-07:00

I am busy gathering the elements of a school uniform for the script we are filming right now. The horrors of British school clothing include nylon blazers, electrifying skirts and polyester shirts, the shoes are appalling and when a modern effort has been made, the sweatshirts and polo tops are very poor quality - false economy I am sure.
This Goan Schoolboy we met a few years ago was charming in his outfit.
If the children must wear a uniform, surely schools could be more imaginative about it?
I dread shopping for the Little Fella's first day.

Davide Taub, Maurice Sedwell

2011-10-11T22:47:00.000-07:00

Walking down Savile Row this week I got to thinking about a tailor Natalie Ward and I met when she was designing 1408. I remembered he was called Davide, extremely passionate about his work and a very clever cutter. I later looked back to the Flickr photo I had taken when I'd asked if I could add him to my workwear project and I'd posted his surname - Taub.

A quick Google and there he is still working at Maurice Sedwell and great news - he has a blog, it's right here, these are his photographs, I recommend reading his post telling how he came to own the Modern Tailoring books pictured above.

As you look at the chalk workings it's no surprise at all to read that Davide trained as an architect before going into the family tradition of tailoring, his drawings on cloth could go straight into frames.

The Amazing Powers of Sugru

2011-09-29T13:25:00.000-07:00

So we'd found a bargain - A classic Bernina machine, serviced and ready to go for £69 but the snag - a broken dial with which to adjust the needle position.

No worries - SUGRU was to hand and now I find it more pleasing than the original, I love a repair, not to mention it saving us about £130 in the process.

1950's Printed Cotton Details

2011-09-22T13:44:00.000-07:00

Agnes Richter's Jacket

2011-09-20T04:37:00.000-07:00

When we first talked about opening Shelf I was keen to do a project involving Costume Designers and prison uniforms, I thought there could be a really interesting exhibition exploring how people express their personalities and their character through the constraints of uniform and I was particularly keen on having Costume Designers, whose job it is to find and express character through clothing, work with prisoners and uniforms.

Outsider Art was always something Katy and I were interested in.

Anyway, the shop took a different course and I never really thought about that idea much again.

But yesterday I was reading this quarter's Selvedge magazine where there's an article about prison clothing and I was reminded of the exhibition idea and Agnes Richter's jacket which I had become aware of around the same time. I can't remember which website I originally discovered the jacket on, I read about it such a long time ago, so I rummaged around again this morning and found a few listings with information - here and here.

Agnes was a mental patient in Austria in the 1890's and the jacket was standard issue of the time. The embroidery is beautiful and intense. Fascinating, unstoppable self expression.

........................................................................................................................................................

NOTE: The jacket is in The Prinzhorn collection in Heidelberg, which is where the photograph originally stems, I haven't linked to the collection because the English translation isn't working today.

Found Photographs #7 : The Workhouse Ward

2011-09-15T13:12:00.000-07:00

I found this at Abernyte Antiques. The image is so odd I thought it was a photograph of a museum display!
It's actually a production photograph from a play by Lady Gregory called The Workhouse Ward.
I was delighted to read the costume notes in the message, Leila went to great lengths to create a believable character, such a good find.

It reads -

April 22nd 1934
So many thanks for yr (sic) most interesting letter. I will write very soon.
I am sending Observer to you.
Do you recognise Leila. She acted in "The Workhouse Ward"
Shawl etc sent over from Ireland. She looks real Irish doesn't she.
All very well here.
Much love Alice.

Engineered Garments, NYC

2011-09-09T13:14:00.001-07:00

Every season the only new collection I make sure I peek at is Engineered Garments from New York.
It's a really interesting response to the current vintage, tweedy, cycling, moustache trend.

They make me think of an expression I hate - 'Period with a twist'. Usually this loathsome phrase means 'I am too scared of bonnets and corsets to allow you to do something truly interesting' but in the case of these collections they really are modern but come out of a strong period reference.
And they've been doing it since 2005.

Meg Andrews' Antique Costume Sale.

2011-09-08T14:10:00.000-07:00

Meg Andrews is having a sale!
Meg's got a great selection of unusual items reduced at the moment.
These everyday items of men's accessories are fascinating - she asks in her shop what was the use of the man's pockets? I can't work it out.
I love the detailed photo's of the stocks, under-stocks and braces.
There are some great textiles which also appear to be reduced right now.
Bargains.

Spidersilk Shawl

2011-09-03T05:52:00.000-07:00

I've been meaning to blog about this spidersilk shawl for ages, found here. it looks amazing.

There is talk on lots of blogs about spidersilk socks from Japan but I have yet to see any - apparently it's the ideal fibre to use for bullet proof vests as it is stronger than steel, weight for weight.
If it becomes possible to mass produce spidersilk, as seems to be the goal, then I guess it could be the high-tech fabric of the future.

Found Photographs #6

2011-08-29T13:15:00.000-07:00

Severija Inčirauskaitė-Kriaunevičienė

2011-08-15T13:58:00.000-07:00

So - I know absolutely nothing about this artist other than I stumbled upon her whilst on one of those online journeys that can end up anywhere.

Her name is Severija Inčirauskaitė-Kriaunevičienėbut and she is from Lithuania.

You can take a further peek here.

Historical Costumes in the Year 1400

2011-08-13T07:31:00.000-07:00

I found this book plate in Camden Passage recently, I absolutely love this kind of costume history reference material. It reminds me of old Ladybird books such as The Princess and the Pea, I used to scrutinise those drawings when I was little, charmed by the world of the Olden Days. I am sure they were part of the reason I do what I do.

Bectu Costume and Wardrobe Event

2011-08-10T14:41:00.000-07:00

The BECTU Costume and Wardrobe Summer Recruitment Social was on Saturday evening.
There was a special “Join on the day” price of £90.00 for a one year membership.

Over the last two or three years there has been a drive for our department to be more unified and better organised as a professional body.

There has been a general feeling for sometime that we need to recognise and value our skills and training as professionals in order to maintain a high standard of working practice and to guarantee fair working conditions for ourselves. Only by insisting on proper training can we hope to raise perceptions of what we do. Joining BECTU to benefit from the support offered there and the contact with other working costume departments is the best way we can hope to achieve change.

Lezli Everritt has been working hard to structure an NVQ with the support of BECTU and Skillset and it is well on its way to completion. I know little of the details and am embarrassed to say I have been a slack union member but I was inspired by what Lezli had to say and urge graduates to join up now; there is a special New Entrants price of £60 for a year's membership, available thoughout the first year following graduation from a recognised training programme.

If we join forces and embrace new technology there are side benefits, particularly for graduates, such as networking and the sharing of resources and information which can be tapped into now that we are able to communicate quickly and efficiently.

What's to lose?

Demanding Types: Undulating Undies with the Marabou Frills!

2011-08-07T01:55:00.000-07:00

Tee Hee.

BBC Costume Design Trainee Scheme

2011-08-01T21:02:00.000-07:00

So the ten applicants for the BBC Costume Design Trainee Scheme, whose portfolios were selected last month, came for their interviews last week.

It was a tough and stringent process.
We were based in Angels, candidates completed two practical exercises using costumes from stock and joined us for a 45 minute chat in order to clearly determine which two aspiring Costume Designers were the right applicants to gain a year long contract with the BBC.

I definitely learnt loads during the process, Alice Skidmore and Linda Mattock are both very experienced interviewers with a strong commitment to the responsibility of getting it right. We got down to the finer details of the applications, discussing the experiences and goals of the candidates and I think we were able to offer the places to those who were at just the right point in their career to benefit most and who also showed great potential to be interesting and original costume designers in the future.

The trainees will be supported by Alice throughout the year when she will co-ordinate placements on TV and film projects which will introduce them to every aspect of working in the costume department. It's interesting to note that Costume has the highest drop-out rate of all the apprenticeship schemes, the work is usually tougher and the hours far longer, than people expect.

This scheme is a brilliant opportunity but I think the timing of the application is crucial; applicants must be experienced enough to be able to do the job and yet inexperienced enough to benefit fully from the opportunity.

Huge congratulations to the successful candidates, their dressed stands from the practicals shown above.
They start in September.

Found Photographs #5

2011-07-30T04:54:00.000-07:00

Some charming young amateur dramatics or school plays, slightly damaged.

I love the beards the boys are sporting in the second one.

The Rag Fair in Houndsditch

2011-07-17T02:16:00.000-07:00

Today's Spitalfields Life has a great posting about the Old Houndsditch Rag Fair with interesting costume details in the illustrations and this John Thomson photograph.
I keep meaning to find out more about the Bishopsgate Institute where these pictures are from, The Gentle Author's previous posts have whetted my appetite but I never seem to have any spare time to go there.

Rospo Antiques, Hackney Road

2011-07-16T14:17:00.000-07:00

Rospo Antiques on the Hackney Road.

It looks like a tiny wee vintage furniture shop from the outside but inside amongst the old fruit crates and furniture are some gems of workwear and antique clothing.
No typical blanket coverage of the eighties Shoreditch vintage here, it's all carefully chosen, carefully displayed and well cared for.

A big surprise is downstairs which opens into a huge and unexpected basement three times the size of the shop and stuffed with school desks, boxes, posters, handsome chairs and fifties kitchens.
In amongst it all the workwear keeps popping up, surprising and tempting me, but the hidden treat is the project of Rospo's wife, who is Japanese. She has done a really great take on traditional Japanese boro work by hand and machine stitching onto vintage workshirts.
With a delicate finish and a lightness of touch an everyday granddad shirt is transformed into a desirable one-off.
I can't believe she found the time, their daughter is only five months old!

There are also some really lovely pieces of 20's and 30's Japanese textiles hanging on the walls and tucked away in the depths of the window displays.

Nainsook

2011-07-14T13:27:00.000-07:00

I had to take a reference picture of this card for another project today.
When I looked closely at the picture in i-photo I realised I had no idea what Nainsook meant, easy to jump to a conclusion because I know what bias binding is but in The Oxford Dictionary I found this:-

     noun:-
     a fine, soft cotton fabric, originally from South Asia, often found with a woven stripe.
     Origin:
     late 18th century: from Hindi nainsukh, from nain 'eye + sukh 'pleasure'

and with an online search I came across this Etsy posting, showing the pictures below, for an 'Antique White Nainsook & Lace Apron'. And it's only $15.00

If a translation of Nainsook is 'Pleasant on the eye' it's a fair description, I reckon.

Smugglers of Lace and Tea

2011-07-12T10:29:00.000-07:00

These fantastic drawings were found recently in the Orkney Customs & Excise Records, blogged here. They are instructions to Kirkwall Customs Officials to watch out for ingenious ways of smuggling tea and lace from ships in 1834.

It is such a brilliant piece of reference, hard to imagine a pound and a half of tea being worth the bother but these were highly valuable commodities smuggled into the country in many ingenious ways. I am sure I read someplace it was common to smuggle lace in coffins.

The top one reads -

Description of six smugglers recently taken with concealments of lace about their persons.

Two of the number carried nine pieces each including the thigh piece as described by

figure one and the remaining four eight parcels each, without the thigh piece as described by figure number two.

Below reads -

Eighteen rows in the above waistcoat or stays, well stuff'd with tea weighing about 8lbs.

And -

The above worn as a pair of drawers made of stout cotton, secured with strong drawing strings, stuff'd with tea and weighing about 16lbs.

Top Boy Costume Sale

2011-07-07T23:39:00.000-07:00

We finished Top Boy with a costume sale.
The idea was to have rails outside and an element of decorum about the proceedings but it threatened to rain and so we had a bun fight at lunchtime on the truck which was much more fun indeed.
It's hard to photograph but fifteen or more cast and crew members at a time, all trying on clothes and calling out offers was a bit mental, like a jumble sale really.
Bargains galore and a huge reduction in the amount of unloading we needed to do the next day, I'd call it a successful end of shoot.

Top Boy Swagger

2011-07-07T00:14:00.000-07:00

From the Urban Dictionary -

Swagger

to move with confidence and sophistication
to be cool, to conduct yourself in a way that would automatically earn respect
to dress in a very stylish, quirky and fashionable way would suggest one has swagger.

..........................................................................................................................................................................
Swagger was the word of the job - most of the young actors were obsessed with it.
Some of us had long, involved debate about which trouser bottoms worked best with which pair of trainers and which shoelace would go best with which sweatshirt. One well known rapper chose a pair of jeans because the shade of denim on the turn up was greyer than an alternative pair and therefore matched the grey of his sweatshirt better; not the brand but the colour of the wrong side of the denim, visible only when turned up, was crucial.

I obviously loved this enthusiasm for clothing, the tiny details are a language I am not supposed to be able to read, I am not their peer, so working with them all to get looks that worked both for them and for me was thoroughly energising. They understood I had an overall vision for the piece and a story to tell for the characters they were playing and I was open to their ideas and inspired by their input.
Learning all about swagger was such good fun, they're all of an age when your clothing and music language is built to deliberately exclude adults and young people from other 'tribes'.
Just like Punk Rock was for me.

One strange thing I've noticed - sweatshirts have become jumpers. Time and again someone would talk about their jumper and it turned out to be a sweatshirt - what's that all about?

Shoes from Supermarket Sarah

2011-07-06T04:32:00.000-07:00

Unusual and period shoes available to rent can be really hard to use due to poor condition or just not enough stock, often I am trying to think of alternatives which are in production and could work in an unexpected way for characterful costumes or period design.
I love these work shoes, available through Supermarket Sarah and even better, they are a really good price - £90.00.

Found Photographs #4

2011-07-05T06:06:00.000-07:00

I found this in a flea market in Budapest last year.

Found Photographs #3

2011-07-04T06:43:00.000-07:00

I was told by the seller this was probably a portrait of a Prison Warden.
Obviously that's plausible but I can't find any references to back it up and there are no notes on the back of the print, any further information would be great.

Found Photographs #2

2011-07-03T00:50:00.000-07:00

The top one is hard to date I reckon, being rural it could be any time from 1940's to 1970's?

The one below I found in a yard sale in Brooklyn five years ago, the seller thought it was Canadian oil rig workmen.

Found Photographs

2011-07-01T03:43:00.000-07:00

I have a collection of workwear and theatrical photographs I've picked up over the years in junk shops and markets, I thought I'd start sharing them.

The top picture is a postcard dated 1st Feb 1908, it reads -
'The group on the obverse played 'The Bobby's Courtship'. The gentleman with the beard apologizes for not weariing shoes.'
So that one isn't workwear but costume - a double whammy.

The girls at the bottom are munitions factory workers, printed in Coventry it reads -
'From your sister Florrie, to Gladys.'

Excellent Childen's Period Footwear

2011-06-26T23:44:00.000-07:00

Katy sent me this link to Victor & Victorine, the shoes are perfect for period work and pretty cute for contemporary too.
Apologies for the poor quality of the pictures, we don't have an actual pair to photograph.

Film Crew Workwear #13

2011-06-01T01:52:00.000-07:00

Sparks.

BBC Costume Design Trainee Scheme

2011-05-25T13:12:00.000-07:00

I have spent two very interesting days going through the portfolio submissions from this year's applicants for the BBC Costume Design Trainee scheme.

Costume Designer Linda Mattock originally set up the scheme which is now run by Alice Skidmore. Linda and Alice are regular assessors so I was really pleased when they asked me to join them this year.

We looked through roughly 100 portfolios and whittled them down to a group of ten who will be invited for interviews in July, competing for two positions.

I can't wait to meet the applicants who got through, their work is strong, all quite different from each other and each one, at this stage, showing great potential.

A Costume Guild for the UK?

2011-05-23T22:42:00.000-07:00

Annie Symons has asked the question 'Costume Guild, Anyone?' and now there is a gathering of people picking up at pace who are interested in coming together to organise a Costume Guild in the UK.
Topically this quarter's Selvedge magazine has an article by Robert Chenciner about the formation of early guilds and trade unions, his closing paragraph:

'It is tempting to make direct connections between guilds and unions. But clearly there is a difference between guilds, designed to protect and uphold standards, train artisan workers and develop markets, and later trade unions which aimed to prevent the mistreatment and exploitation of workers which arose from industrialisation. However they both fought exploitation by the ruling class.'

Annie is organising the first meeting, and then I guess it's up to all of us to add our support, commitment, creativity and energy to get right behind it and look at what we can achieve together.

For more information go here.

Film Crew Workwear #12

2011-05-21T21:00:00.000-07:00

John the Medic.

Annie Symons

2011-05-20T06:30:00.000-07:00

Belated Congratulations to Annie Symons who won the Costume Design BAFTA at last week's Craft Awards for her brilliant work on BBC 2's drama Worried About The Boy.
I know Annie struggled with budget constraints so it's an even bigger 'Well Done' for managing to pull it off with so much wit and accuracy, I loved it.

Film Crew Workwear #11

2011-05-20T02:10:00.000-07:00

Pete from the Security Team.

Film Crew Workwear #10

2011-05-19T07:41:00.000-07:00

H and Josef - Catering. Mick and Dave - Facilities Drivers, Jake - 3rd AD. Beth Gillman and Genevieve Cox - Costume Assistants.

Iconic American Clothing Exhibition

2011-05-03T13:33:00.000-07:00

This selling exhibition and talk looks to be brilliant, from Ragtop Vintage.

Knits from the Fair Isle at Drakes of London.

2011-05-01T15:46:00.000-07:00

Drakes of London have a great post in Spitalfields Life this week, I really like these Fairisle sleeveless pullovers, reproduced from traditional designs and patterned both front and back, they are ideal for period jobs and, I reckon, a great price at £110 each.

See Spitalfields Life or Drakes of London for details.

Film Crew Workwear #9

2011-05-01T15:41:00.000-07:00

Top Down: Dean the Stills Photographer, Rash the Sound Recordist, Gemma and Juliet from Make-Up and an action shot of Warwick, the Grip, with Matt on the rickshaw.

Film Crew Workwear #8

2011-04-29T10:54:00.000-07:00

Top Down: Matt Lumley, Spark, Pia who is here for work experience in the Production Department, David Harwood our Production Secretary, Boris from Bulgaria who is with Security and Paul Gatley, one of our Unit Drivers.

Pae White @ Oslo Opera House

2011-04-28T01:33:00.000-07:00

This is the new curtain at Oslo Opera House, designed by artist Pae White, I can't get over the fact that it is woven.

Via Rory Hamilton, who found it here.

Film Crew Workwear #7

2011-04-27T08:55:00.000-07:00

Top: Chris Allen, Standby Props

Below: Matt Fisher, Camera Operator

Labels

2011-04-27T02:03:00.000-07:00

Film Crew Workwear #6

2011-04-27T01:43:00.000-07:00

Top: Alan Hold, Security. Alan is also three times British Olympic Wrestling Champion.

Below: Assistant Directors - Jamie D our 2nd and Adam Lock, the 1st.

Film Crew Workwear #5

2011-04-25T03:20:00.000-07:00

Jermaine Edwards, Camera Trainee and Rachel Clark, Camera Assistant

Spoonflower

2011-04-23T01:46:00.000-07:00

Katy sent me a link to Spoonflower this week, these are a selection of the designs they have for show and tell purposes which are also for sale, click on the images to take you to more of each designer's work.

Spoonflower is a really easy way to have your own design digitally printed onto cotton at a very reasonable price.
Natural fibre fabrics are printed using eco-friendly, water-based pigment inks. You simply upload your design, even order a sample swatch, and that's it, posted to you in about three weeks.

Cutting out the setting up costs which are normal in printworks and honing down the techniques on offer to one process, they seem to have been able to crack it on prices. Really tempting for crafting projects, the process means even photographic designs, like the bark above, can be printed and being able to use your own print design for a textile project becomes available to everyone, which is brilliant.

It's a pity no-one's doing it over here, the shipping from the States possibly cancels out the green qualities of the clean inks and natural cottons.

Film Crew Workwear #4

2011-04-23T00:55:00.000-07:00

Chan Chau, Production Co-Ordinator

Film Crew Workwear #2

2011-04-22T08:06:00.000-07:00

Yvonne Ibazebo, our Line Producer.

Film Crew Workwear

2011-04-20T16:50:00.000-07:00

In tandem with my workwear project I thought I would publish the reference pictures I am taking during this shoot, if they all give me permission, I aim to log a full crew by wrap on June 6th.

First up is Heather Storr, our Script Supervisor.

My Favourite Blog of the Moment: Rising Sun Jeans

2011-04-19T15:27:00.000-07:00

Rising Sun in California has blown me away.
I need a script to land in my lap right now that requires me to order from them.
Just look here and you shall see.

Made Within The British Empire

2011-04-17T15:36:00.000-07:00

So this is another leftover from the Shelf vintage days which I mentioned in this post and it fits the wee fella perfectly.
I'll take a snap when he decides he is willing to wear it.
This is I think, his first of many visits to a costume truck, watched over as we all are, by Costume's own Miss Lucy Donowho.

Dan River Western Shirt at Ragtop Vintage

2011-04-14T13:59:00.000-07:00

At Spitalfields Market today I met Dave from Ragtop Vintage. Tucked quite deeply into his display was this wonderful western shirt, still with all it's original labels. It could look great inside a frame, it's a piece of art in itself, ace graphics and perfectly folded but someone surely will buy it to wear, that's it's purpose after all.

Dave also has a really good blog: here. I've just spent the last wee while rummaging around, loads of good detail shots to ponder.

Broadway Market

2011-04-09T06:29:00.000-07:00

We are having a heatwave; high summer in early April.
Broadway Market was duly mobbed this morning but avoiding the crush we stopped off at Bart and Tash to say Hi and spent half an hour hanging out in their calm spot, drinking our coffee and admiring the latest workwear they have unearthed for their stall

They have some really nice pieces this week with great details, it's always worth a peek.

Two More from Dinky Vintage

2011-04-05T13:14:00.000-07:00

Tiny Snorkel Parkas and Other Vintage Childrenswear

2011-04-04T00:44:00.000-07:00

This weekend we took a trip down to Brighton to visit friends, they took us to loads of good shops where I could easily have filled the car with second hand clobber. One place we stopped at, Dinky Vintage, has a great collection of children's clothes for sale and to rent with excellent condition stock from the 30's through to the 70's. The clothes are all reasonably priced, particularly considering how hard it is to find such good condition and sometimes unworn, period kids clothes.

Apparently there's a website on the way, I'll link to it as soon as it's up.

Tidying the Studio

2011-03-29T08:13:00.000-07:00

I think I am going to stop saving things like these, I am just going to take them home and use them.

Childrens Knitted Gloves

2011-03-18T15:32:00.000-07:00

It's hard to believe it's been ten years since Katy and I spent all those months travelling around Europe sourcing and sampling things for Shelf. We did sell vintage items in the beginning and these kids gloves, found in a Barcelona flea market, were some of the items we brought back but were never able to part with. We talked about box frames and showcases but somehow they stayed in a box in the basement, just as they presumably always had. Now we've moved out of the shop premises they've popped up again, who knows, maybe now we'll find a way to display them as they deserve.
They are hard to date, some formal Spanish kids clothes, even nowadays, look like they belong in the sixties but my feeling is these are fifties.

Cowboy Fancy Dress

2011-03-17T16:19:00.000-07:00

Look what popped through the letterbox yesterday. A fabulous gift from fellow Costume Designer, Sharon Long, this cowboy shirt is exactly what the little fella needs for his first fancy dress party ... we can't wait for the invite, there's room for growth so no pressure!
We'll have a wee practice meantime, I'll make some chaps and a hat in preparation...

Swedish Lace Collars

2011-03-09T14:49:00.000-08:00

Recently, on our trip to Sweden, I was shown this gorgeous box of old stock left over from my friend Helena's father's haberdashery shop. The shop closed a long time ago but Helena and her mother couldn't bear to part with a few special items and these boxes of crisp, white collars are stored safely in the garage.

Helena spent many childhood Saturdays writing price tickets and working in the shop. The collars, all still bundled into matching groups with perfect red bands are adorable as they are but for costume purposes, they are ideal for a period school project or a script with lots of little girls in matching outfits; when you look in the box and rummage around the designs it's easy to imagine them all walking smartly in croc behind their teacher.

Screen Archive Southeast

2011-03-05T13:31:00.000-08:00

Thanks to Phoebe De Gaye for introducing me to an online fashion on film archive, Screen Search Fashion.

In their own words -

This online resource provides a thematic guide to aspects of 1920s and 1930s fashion and dress as depicted in films from Screen Archive South East’s collections.
The selected themes guide you through the collections, using stills and clips from the archive. These enable you to discover more about the different types of clothing worn, and their historical and design contexts. There are links to records in the online film database, which can be explored in further detail, as well as links to related resources held in archives, libraries and museums.

Workwear, Berlin.

2011-02-26T21:43:00.000-08:00

Friend and colleague Bart Carriss took this photograph for my workwear collection in Berlin, the bloke looks great and reminds me how brilliant those Berlin flea markets are.

Since I am busy working on too many projects right now, it's a good opportunity to publish some of the items I have been sent recently by friends with common interests. Thanks to Bart, for today.

Rob Ryan Screenprints for Haiti

2011-02-18T15:33:00.000-08:00

A message from Mr. Rob Ryan, in his own words;

As you know, just over a year ago on 12th January 2010 Haiti was hit by a catastrophic earthquake and 13 months later, the country is still in need of so much help.
To try and do my bit to raise some money, I’ve designed and printed a brand new limited edition screenprint which will be sold on Etsy and in my shop, Ryantown on Columbia Road.
The price will be £200 and with Paypal and Etsy fees subtracted (please see breakdown), this leaves £186 per print sold going straight to the Haiti cause. If we can sell the whole edition of 200 of these, we could raise a massive £37,200.

Each print measures 54.3 cm wide by 39cm high, printed using water based inks onto Heritage Woodfree 315gsm paper which measures 68.5cm wide by 51cm high

Cost breakdown:

Etsy fees: 3.5% of each print + 20cents per print = £7.00
Paypal fees: 3.4% of each print + 20 pence per print = £7.00
Total fees: £14 per print sold.

Best wishes and many thanks,

Rob

Kamleikas - Inuit Seal Gut Parkas.

2011-02-10T13:48:00.000-08:00

In the British Museum a couple of weeks ago we saw these Inuit seal gut parkas, it was a bit of a wrangle with the hoards of school children but I manged to elbow my way to the front to take a few wobbly photographs.
The Inuit made these parkas from seal intestines, ideal fabric as once dried it breathes from the inside and repels water on the outside. They would stitch their parka to the edge of their canoe, creating a watertight seam. Decorated with puffin beaks, beads and feathers and finished with a functional drawstring at the hood and cuffs, the parkas look like something from the current 'Future Beauty' Japanese Fashion exhibition at the Barbican, rather than original pieces from the late nineteenth century.
Prized by whalers who found the light weight shells far more comfortable for work than than their oilskins, the parkas traded at a high price.

And a special Thank You to the kindly person who handed my purse into lost property.

Anna-Maria Garthwaite and James Leman

2011-02-03T16:55:00.000-08:00

Top three photo's show Mora Thunder and Staley Rondeau alongside a design by James Leman.

Last week I went on a field trip with The Gentle Author and Stanley Rondeau to the VA to meet Curator of Designs, Moira Thunder. Stanley is a direct descendant of a Spitalfields weaver called John Rondeau, who was born in France in 1666.

We went to look at some of the original designs Anna-Maria Garthwaite had produced for John Rondeau to weave.

Seeing the original notes and dates on the paper brought home how very long ago this was and just how vibrant the colour must have been in its fresh newness but to accompany Stanley and to witness his emotional connection to his ancestor, whilst at the same time picking Moira's brains about the various people and their skills and responsibilities involved in producing a woven silk design for a client was, for me as a Costume Designer, the perfect framework for a museum visit.
Considering the human element and the world in which these people lived, made their stories come to life and I felt their characters lift off the pages which is, in the end, my job.

Universal Workwear

2011-01-30T01:12:00.000-08:00

Workwear at Hand-Eye Supply includes this extraordinary work-kilt; with over 100 pockets, one day it'll be exactly what's needed.

The denim and herringbone workwear from Chicago's Universal Overall, a company that's been making work clothes since 1924, is so much more characterful than the usual polyester we get here, never mind how well they will age as time and hard work take their toll, I can't wait for the job that gives me reason to buy some, in fact there is so much good stuff on their site, had I found it before Christmas I could have done most of my shopping right there...
Must remember next year.

Photographic Archives

2011-01-28T14:13:00.000-08:00

He's done it again - Spitalfields Life, lynchpin of our community, has uncovered another fascinating collection of photographs.
I heavily recommend signing up to this blog, it is The Gentle Author's habit to ask everyone he writes about if they have any photographs that may be of interest. So many do. And his blog is becoming a rich source of research material, never mind a thoroughly pleasurable read.

Morreton Hats.

2011-01-27T13:41:00.000-08:00

One last thank you to Charles-Henri Morreton for his generous contribution of images.
I love the internet.

Morreton Hats - Black and White Images.

2011-01-26T13:37:00.000-08:00

Morreton Hats Cont.

2011-01-25T13:31:00.000-08:00

Morreton Hats

2011-01-24T12:54:00.000-08:00

Once again the blogging community and the internet have proved themselves to be things of great wonder.
Whilst I was in Japan I received an email from Charles-Henri Morreton regarding a previous post of mine and dialogue we had shared about the label I had found inside a Morreton hat.
My lack of knowledge of Morreton hats and their illustrators was addressed -

"It's funny because last week I made a book about MORRETON Hats' advertisements for me.

About the MORRETON firm, it was created in 1863 (in Chazelles-sur-Lyon, near Lyon - FRANCE) by my great grand father Jean MORRETON and the firm closed during my grand father's direction...

So I never knew this firm :-( I was born in 1981!

About your favourite label, I am not sure that was from Jean Desnos..."

The fantastic collection of artwork associated with the hats can be found here and to top off the correspondence, Charles-Henri very generously sent me a whole lot of images to blog.

More tomorrow.

Katazome

2011-01-23T02:22:00.000-08:00

Cotton printed using the katazome technique where rice paste is pressed through stencils to create a resist then the fabric is dipped in dye, usually Indigo or kakishibu.

I didn't notice any cracking as you would see in batik, a similar process, perhaps the rice paste stays flexible?

There are some good notes on the history of Japanese stenciling here, read how human hair was once used to secure intricate, fragile parts of a stencil - typical Japanese attention to detail and problem solving.

Wentworth Street

2011-01-17T00:05:00.000-08:00

Wentworth Street for fabric has been a brilliant resource for costume for years and the spirit of it all is captured with some great words and portraits by The Gentle Author in today's Spitalfields Life.

Furoshiki - Japanese Wrapping Cloths Part 2

2011-01-16T07:12:00.000-08:00

This is my treat to myself: the Indigo Furoshiki I bought from a fabric dealer in Japan.
You can see the cloth has been made with widths of homespun fabric, like kimono garments, which goes right back to the Tilke conversation I was having in this post.

The writing on the corner is the label, a Saki brand I think.

Look at the beautiful wear and tear where the stress has been on the corners, the torn off knot is intact on the left side, like a full stop after years of lugging. The broken edge has worn so thin through hard work, I can sense the repeated tying and untying and the weight of the load and, as with all used workwear, I feel the presence of the worker. In this instance I think the feeling goes even further back, through the fingers of whoever stitched it together, patched and mended it, right into the hands of the weaver who was likely working at home.

I'm not sure what to do with my Furoshiki right now, maybe I'll stitch it onto a heavy linen sheet and make a bedspread, one thing I know is I want it to carry on working in some capacity.

... and if you peer hard enough you'll see a lovely spot of darning diagonally up and left of the price ticket.

Abernyte Antiques: Further Temptations

2011-01-14T05:36:00.000-08:00

Abernyte Antiques

2011-01-12T05:33:00.000-08:00

Abernyte Antiques Market in Perthshire is always worth a mooch.

St. Andrews Woollen Mill: Aran Stitches And Their Meanings

2011-01-08T06:42:00.000-08:00

I have very fond memories of going to the St. Andrews Woollen Mill with my gran to buy huge hanks of oily wool for knitting, it was a large warehouse full of wools, patterns, sheepskin rugs, knitting equipment and hand-knitted gems. The Woollen Mill probably closed around 1980 but the smell of the place is indelibly marked in my memory.

It was lovely to find this leaflet inside a bargain bag of knitting patterns I bought yesterday in Abernyte Antiques mall for £6, I remember the logo and font so well, the low-tech artwork is inspiring in itself.

If only such places still existed.

A transcription:

THE ARAN STORY

Aran knitting is one of the most popular forms of knitting today and it is thought that it originated about 500 years ago in a group of three islands off Galway Bay on the west coast of Ireland. The islands as a group are known as the Aran Islands but individually they are known as Inishmore which means the 'big island', Inishmaaan the 'middle island' and Inisheer the 'west island'.

It started long ago with the fishermen of Aran making nets and then developing this skill into the knitting of garments using goose quills and a very rough spun local wool known as 'bainin' which means off-white.

The stitches used today in Aran knitting are exactly the same as those used centuries ago. They originally told the story of the life and the work of the people in the West of Ireland. The people in remote villages earned their living from the land and sea. Each family had its own design and pattern which to them was full of meaning.

HONEYCOMB STITCH

This stitch recalled the honey earned by the hardworking bee and was made by twisting stitches forward and back across the panel.

TRINITY STITCH

This stitch depicted the holy trinity - Three in One and One in Three. Trinity stitch is also known as Blackberry Stitch.

TREE OF LIFE

It was thought that this design ensured a long life to the wearer and strong sons to help with the fishing. It was worked by knit or twist stitches against a purl background.

TRELLIS STITCH

This stitch was worked as very small diamonds and illustrated the small stone walled fields in Western Ireland.

CABLE STITCH

This stitch represented the fisherman's rope and was therefore essential to the prosperity of a fishing village.

LOBSTER CLAWS

These were another form of cable and were in honour of the lobsters which were plentiful off that part of Ireland and helped in the prosperity of the community.

FERN STITCH

This stitch had great importance attached to it and when worked with Trinity Stitch carried a religious significance.

SINGLE ZIG-ZAG

This pattern was like a cliff path winding between the rocky outcrops which were represented by a form of Trinity Stitch.

DOUBLE ZIG-ZAG

This was usually considered as the 'Ups and Downs' of married life and was also known as the 'Marriage Lines'.

LADDER OF LIFE

This was purl or twist stitches worked to form the poles and rungs of a ladder against a knit stitch background. It symbolises that man climbed from earth to Eternal Happiness.

IRISH MOSS

This was a single moss stitch and was another symbol of wealth in the coastal districts. Irish Moss is an edible seaweed and at one time was an important source of nourishment. it was used to flavour soup and even today is considered a delicacy.

DIAMOND STITCH

This stitch represented wealth and success to the wearer and was formed by plain stitches on a purl or moss background.

CORK CABLE

This was a treble stitch and it reproduced a common design from Celtic Crosses and reminded people of the strong faith of the Irish community.

BLARNEY KISS

This, of course, recalled the famous stone and the story that those people who kissed the Blarney Stone enjoyed at all times, the gift of a persuasive tongue and this was worked as a cable within a cable.

BASKET STITCH

This refers to a fisherman's basket known as a creel and embodies the hope of a large catch.

There are more stitches than those described here. Part of the fun and interest in the whole Aran Story is in discovering new stitches as well as recognising old favourites. It is fascinating to examine the many examples that one sees worn by people in all places and all walks of life. We are always interested in new examples of stitches together with the stories and legends behind them and we shall be happy to hear from you if you have any more to add to our collection.
[As would I, in order to keep the spirit of this leaflet alive and well.]

Furoshiki - Japanese Wrapping Cloths

2011-01-06T02:07:00.000-08:00

At the flea markets the traders arrive with piles of kimono and fabrics folded inside lovely wrapping cloths called Furoshiki. Far more environmentally responsible and frankly much nicer than a checkie or plastic bag, they also double up as a useful mat on which to display the wares. I managed to convince a couple of friendly stallholders that we needed the cloths to transport our purchases back to the car rather than take more plastic nonesense, it felt like treasure.

The antique fabric dealers have some fantastic examples of indigo wrapping cloths, I bought one and will photograph it for blogging purposes at some stage soon.

Kyoto. Kimono Silk Printers

2011-01-05T00:44:00.000-08:00

Kyoto's traditional textile printers.

The table in the second photograph is the length of a Tan or rather a Kimono's worth of fabric - Kimono are made from a single bolt of silk, lengths are all roughly 14 inches wide by 12.5 yards long and all traditional Japanese trouser and kimono patterns come from variations on cuts out of this single piece. The patterns remind me of Max Tilke's research on folk costumes; designs deriving from fabric widths compatible with a home loom.

The purchasing of textiles in given lengths is a similar experience to buying African or Indian textiles: no swatching. You need confidence in your buying decisions.

Japanese Prints # 1

2010-12-26T04:16:00.000-08:00

A Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Japanese Prostitutes

2010-12-14T12:43:00.000-08:00

When we first visited Tokyo Costume, a series of fittings was held during which we were taught how to dress men and women of all social classes.
The obi tying and clothing nuances were such a lot to grasp on day one we simply followed where we were led and didn't question very much.
In my experience of western costume houses I know for sure some have a better grasp of what is considered correct period costume while the strengths of others may lie elsewhere. I wondered back at the hotel as I uploaded my photographs, whether perhaps the shapes we were creating for our prostitutes had been exaggerated for artistic or film purposes. As I explored more of the available research I was astonished by the photographs I found of prostitutes dating from 1860 onwards. You couldn't make it up, our fittings were bordering on tame.
Note the front tied obis for easier undressing.

I learnt so much in the ten days we were in Japan I can't stop studying, it was a taster of so much that I find fascinating, I am in regular contact with Kazuko Kurosawa and intend to continue picking her brains and posting details on the topic despite the fact I am now heading onto another job with a very different script.

Uchikaki

2010-12-13T03:15:00.000-08:00

This is the incredible silhouette created by the Uchikake.

The turtle-like shape at the back is created by the obi underneath, surprisingly there is no change in the pattern itself which is the same across the back as a kimono, except that the front is straight, not cut to wrap around the body, and the extra length is kept in place by the heavily padded hem rather than pulled up under the obi in a kind of fitting whilst dressing.
The exaggerated shape of the back seems to accentuate the area of skin at the nape of the neck where this traditionally erotic area is exposed by the low line of the collars.

Ohio Knitting Mills

2010-12-09T03:14:00.000-08:00

A slight diversion from all things Japanese to mention Ohio Knitting Mills' Pop-Up Shop.
I've been a fan for a while now, recommended to me by print designer and good friend, Kathryn Dale.
So much of their original stock has gone but there are a few choice items left and are on sale here.

Ojiya Chijimi, Snow Bleaching.

2010-12-07T22:11:00.000-08:00

Ojiya Chijimi - we didn't visit this region but I wish we had.

SVPPLY

2010-12-06T13:09:00.000-08:00

This week I have discovered the evil pleasure that is SVPPLY.

Japanese Barmen

2010-12-05T13:04:00.000-08:00

Tokyu Hands

2010-11-27T12:44:00.000-08:00

The legendary Tokyu Hands: it's all true. The first visit was so intense I could only cope with it knowing that we would be back at least one more time before leaving Japan. I'm aware how shallow that sounds, but think; everything you like comes in as many colours as you can imagine. The stationery and craft departments are incredible.

Kakishibu Stripes

2010-11-23T13:15:00.000-08:00

Kaki-shibu, translates as 'persimmon-bitter', it is a natural dye prepared from the fermented juice of unripe persimmons. Juice is aged for up to five years to acquire the tobacco coloured tones. Unlike other dyes, kakishibu not only adds colour, it coats the fibres with a protective layer that makes the fabric water-resistant. Traditionally the anti-bacterial and waterproofing qualities of kakishibu meant it was also used as a wood preservative, an insect repellent and further utilised for medicinal purposes.

Yarns can be dyed then woven or finished cloth can be dipped and have surface designs applied by any of the traditional methods: painting, tie dyeing (Shibori), stencilling (Katazome), or printing using a rice paste resist (Tsutsugaki).

First Frost

2010-11-21T12:59:00.000-08:00

There's a benefit to driving out to Pinewood at the crack of dawn - I get to see the first frost of the year.

Obis and Cords

2010-11-20T12:57:00.000-08:00